Lovely & Loved Smart & Loyal Great Friends & Companions

 Each  kitten will receive first vaccination with Fel-O-Guard at the age of 8  weeks with reoccurring second shot at the age of 12 weeks unless future  owner prefers to take kitten early and assumes that responsibility in  agreement with me after kitten wined from the mother cat and turns at  least 8,3 weeks of age. Fel-O-Guard 3 killed includes protection from rerhinotracheitis, calici virus and panleukopenia(distemper).  

 Special Notes

Many  breeders claim that people with cat allergies can tolerate Siberians.  Various reasons are given for this, the most popular being that  Siberians produce little or none of the allergenic protein Fel d1.  This protein, which causes allergic reactions in humans, is secreted  via saliva and sebaceous glands and is spread onto the fur during  grooming. However, little testing has been done to confirm this so it  would be unwise to buy a Siberian solely on the basis of these claims.  If you’re allergic to cats, plan to spend time in close contact with  Siberians, preferably over an extended period, to make sure you can  tolerate them before agreeing to buy. However, spending time with a  Siberian (or any cat) is no guarantee against future problems with allergies.  SOME ARTICLES THAT MIGHT ASSIST YOU WITH A NEW KITTEN

Toys For Your Pet That Are Safe and Fun
As  with children's toys, safety should be first and foremost in your  thoughts when considering a new toy purchase for your pet. Be sure not  to give your pet toys that can be broken up and potentially stuck in  their throats! Hard rubber toys line of products can provide with  endless hours of chewing fun.

A  recent favorite of cats and cat owners is the laser pointer. Cats never  seem to tire from chasing that little red dot around, just be sure not  to direct it at their eyes. The feather-and-pole type of toy is also  very popular. Scratching posts are excellent forms of entertainment for  cats.  

 SCRACHING

Scratching  is not just a means of sharpening claws, it's a vital form of exercise  that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through  the motions. It's instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats  gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on,  preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department  abominations. That only confuses them.

If  that's what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap  it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound  tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip  cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for  this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface  will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy.  Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can  reach. Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take  well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.  Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not  synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat's  favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new  surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These  materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep  or vacuum around it.

2.  Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs. Pass up all  those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned  textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy  fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are  also major no-no's. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it! Look for  strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most  denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale  or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and  are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a  medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile.  Remember, minimum texture is the key. As long as we're on the subject,  think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it  won't be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a  number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that  self-adhere to most fabrics.

3.  Trim the claws. It's not as difficult as it might seem, especially if  you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail  trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and  practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become  accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently  to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one  or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still  find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal  fee.

4.  Claw caps. These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws  and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I've never tried them myself, but many  people report good results. Cats and people have shared living quarters  for thousand of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we  should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves,  our pets, and our furniture.  

 Grooming

While  Siberians don’t require the grooming Persians do, their thick fur still  needs regular grooming or matting can occur. A thorough combing (not  brushing) with a good steel comb once or twice a week should do the  trick. Be sure to comb down to the hair roots (be gentle) or the comb  may slide over forming mats.

In spring, the Siberian sheds his  longer, heavier winter coat to make way for his summer coat, and in fall  the cat sheds his lighter, shorter summer coat to prepare for winter.  During these seasons additional grooming is needed if you don’t want  tufts of fur on everything you own.

Siberians are rare, so they  can be pricey. Kittens are in high demand and the supply is limited, so  expect a wait. Pricing depends upon the breeder, bloodline, location,  gender, and color and pattern.

Association Acceptance

The Siberian is accepted for championship by the following North American cat associations:

American Association of Cat Enthusiasts (AACE)
American Cat Association (ACA)
American Cat Fancier’s Association (ACFA)
Cat Fanciers’ Federation (CFF)
National Cat Fanciers’ Association (NCFA)
The International Cat Association (TICA)
Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA)United Feline Organization (UFO)  

Parasites/Fleas 

 Parasites  are organisms that survive by feeding off of other creatures. Among  cats, parasites generally feed on the animal's blood. Detecting internal  parasites can be difficult, but a close inspection of skin and fur is  usually all that is needed to uncover traces of external parasites such  as ear mites and fleas. There are many types of worms that are internal  parasites to cats. If you see small, rice like debris around your cat's  anus or in her bedding, take her to your veterinarian. He will need to  run simple tests to identify what type of worm is present so that he can  prescribe the proper medication to eliminate the parasite.

Coccidia  are microscopic parasites. They live in cells within the lining of the  intestines. The most common symptom is diarrhea. Left untreated, the  animal becomes extremely weak and dehydrated. Fortunately coccidiosis is  treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon) and  trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen) are effective in the treatment  and prevention of coccidia. However, these drugs do not kill the  parasites, but rather inhibit reproduction - elimination of coccidia  from the intestine is slow.

Ear  mites take up residence in a cat's ear canals. As they feed, they cause  intense itching. A cat suffering from an infestation of ear mites  scratches behind her ears often and is seen violently shaking her head  on a regular basis. If you look inside her ears, you will see dark  flecks that resemble coffee grounds - these are the mites' droppings. If  you suspect ear mites, contact your veterinarian.

There  are several effective treatments for ear mites, such as Fipronil  (Frontline) and Selamectin (Revolution). Ear mites are easily treated  with eardrops, but are very contagious to other cats. If you have a  multi-cat household, isolate the infected cat as soon as possible. Ear  mites are not transmitted from cats to humans.

Ringworm  is not a true worm, rather the name for a type of fungus, related to  the fungus that causes athlete's foot in humans. It usually causes no  discomfort, but is highly contagious to other cats and humans. If left  untreated it weakens the immune system and leaves your cat vulnerable to  other, more serious diseases.

Fleas  are perhaps the most infamous pet parasite. Although they eat no more  than a drop of blood each, a flea infestation can cause anemia in adult  cats and death in kittens. In addition to literally sucking the life  from your cat, fleas often transmit tapeworms, as serious internal  parasite. Just a few fleas can cause great discomfort to your cat,  especially if she is one of the many animals allergic to fleabites. The  best way to conquer a flea invasion is to prevent it in the first place.

Daily  grooming, especially if you allow your cat outdoors will help you keep  one step ahead of the flea hordes. As you flea-comb your cat, dip the  comb into a container of soapy water to kill the fleas. The soap film  coats and suffocates the fleas.

Ask  your veterinarian about preventative flea medications. These are given  to your cat orally. The chemical they contain is harmless to your cat,  but makes fleas sterile. It is absorbed into your cat's blood, so when a  flea bites her it cannot reproduce.

If  your cat has had fleas in the past, it is very likely that you have  flea eggs and larvae in your carpet and upholstery. Your veterinarian  can suggest a "flea bomb" based on how bad the infestation is. It is  important to follow the package instructions carefully and repeat  treatment as directed in order to make sure all the generations are  eliminated.
  

 Semi-moist  foods are usually less expensive because they contain Some vegetable  protein and are usually supplemented with nutrients to make them  nutritionally complete, especially for growing kittens. Dry foods  contain about 10 percent water and less fat and protein then semi-moist  foods. Cats on dry diets should have plenty of water available. Some  cats on dry diets may develop bladder problems. Milk, water, or gravy  can be mixed with the food to improve palatability and to ensure that  the cat gets adequate water intake. One may wish to feed canned foods  occasionally to help prevent bladder problems, get the cat used to  different types and textures of foods, and ensure tat the cat gets a  balanced diet. Dry foods do have the advantage of helping to clean the  teeth and prevent the buildup tartar. The amount of food one gives  depends on the cat's age, weight, condition, and amount of activity it  gets. Cats and young kittens will not consume enough food in one meal to  last 24 hours. Two meals are recommended and young kittens and females  that are pregnant or nursing require more frequent feedings. Cats should  never be given a diet of dog food because it contains large amounts of  cereals and vegetables. Because of this, the cat may not get enough  animal protein.  Many times cats will be seen eating grass. The exact  reason for this is not known, but it may be an attempt to increase  roughage in the diet or to eliminate a hairball. The amount of exercise a  cat needs varies considerably depending on the on the breed and where  its home is. A cat living in a city apartment may get very little  exercise, whereas one living in rural areas may be allowed to runs free.  Apartment cats may need to be furnished with toys, cardboard tubes, or  other play equipment to provide them with means to exercise Owners of  valuable purebred or snow cats may not want their animals to run free  where they risk injury, loss, or unwanted litters. Outdoor cats get  plenty exercise however, they run a greater risk of injury from fights,  of death or injury of the roadways, and of contacting diseases and  parasites. Cats living in indoors should have clean litter box and  plenty of water. Owners should be aware of plants that are poisonous to  their pets and other dangers if the cat is left alone for long periods  of time. To protect the furniture, cats should be trained to use a  scratching post. Cats scratch to sharpen their claws, to remove loose  scales and fragments of dry skin, and to leave a mark for other cats.  Kittens should be trained to use a scratching post as soon as they are  weaned. The kitten should be held by the scratching post and its claws  placed on the post. The kitten will soon learn what to do and will  usually come to the same post a cloth covered post may offer the cat an  alternative to clawing on soft furniture and draperies.

Correct  toilet training is easier with cats than with dogs because cats  naturally cover their urine and feces. If a mother cat does a good job  of raising her litter, she will probably train them to use a litter box.  If a kitten does not know what the litter box if for, can train it  easily. Holding it front paws, the owner should show it how to scratch  the litter material. Every time the kitten appears to be looking for a  place to urinate or defecate, it should be placed in the  litter box. 

 if  you do not catch the cat going potty on the floor at the very moment;  it will not make any sense to the cat what you do to them about it. Cats  remember things like that only shortly. No rubbing the nose of the cat  in it, that will only cause pain, or do anything that would harm or hurt  your cat. By doing any of these painful acts will only make the cat  afraid of you and you will have a very hard time training your cat to do  any behaviors, or taking care of your cat.

Let's  look at the potty device, to see what steps are taken to get the cat to  use the toilet. First, you will need to put the device in the toilet.  It is basically a small shallow version of a toilet bowl that fits under  the ring on the toilet. The recommendation is to put small amount of  cat litter in the small portion of the plastic bowl. Then remove all  other cat litter boxes, so the cat will only find litter in one place.  Another thought is to cover the plants on the floor, so the cat will not  be able to dig in the dirt. With the device, that you get, there could  be some type of fragrances to put on the toilet device to help attract  the cat to that area. Leave the cat for a while in the bathroom, with  the door closed, privacy is something that cat need and want and will  the cat will explore that the litter in on the toilet and use it there.  If there seems to be a problem with the cat going, you may want to put  the litter box next to the toilet, this way the cat will get use to this  and see the toilet, before getting the training started. In this time  if you see that cat needs to go, pick the cat up and put it on the  toilet with the device on so that kitty will see the device and the  litter.This will all take time and lots of patience from you and some  good training to the cat. The cat does not have natural instincts to go  in the bathroom and go on the toilet. When a cat is older, this can be a  real task as the older cats are usually set in their ways and do not  like change. With this, you will want to use the slow approach. In the  end, you and your cat will be happy that there are no more kitty litter  boxes in the home. Rewards are very important in this training and hard  also; you may not see or catch your cat on there going but remember to  reward them when you do see them.