2020 Winter/Spring

 CH Misha & CH Margo 

Open to reservation  No red color boy or girl




2020  Winter/Spring

Open to reservation no red color boy or girl


We take reservations  for 2020 

Find out more







BORN 5/29/17



 K I T T E N C A R E

This  category includes kitten over 4 months of age. We need to remember that  even though they are healthy, they've had a very stressful life lately  and most are just out of the pound. Just like us, after extreme stress  like finals or a big presentation at work, it's not until we're done and  relaxing at home that we come down with a cold or the flu.    Please try the following if you have an acceptance issue with  cats, dogs in the household and new kitten:

Bath  both cats, cat and dog, with the same shampoo. About an hour after the  baths new comer will be dried out by older cat/dog and accepted in the  house.  Also,  if kitten bites or scratches the owner, try to make a hissing sound  like you are a cat in pain, kitten would thing that he/she hurts its own  and remember not to do it again, repeated couple of times, but make  sure you do not do it too loud otherwise you would scare little fellow  and make more damage than good.




The  same applies to the cats.This is why we require a 7 day in-home  quarantine, which sounds far more foreboding than it is. Basically keep  the new kid in a bathroom or spare room, separate from your other cats.  Even if you don't have other cats, if the kitty should break with a cold  we don't want the rest of your house contaminated. The bathroom works  great because you're in there a lot on, well - your own 'business' which  involves significant 'sit-down' time. Plenty of opportunity to  socialize with the kitty and love it up.

Why seven days? Because  most cold and flu viruses have a 3-6 day incubation period. Therefore  if it doesn't show signs of illness with 7 days, it's probably free of  anything it picked up at the pound and we can allow it to start mingling  with the rest of the household.

Another advantage of isolation  ofother cats is for socialization purposes. It sounds strange that we  should keep cats apart, so they get along better, but it is absolutely  true.

When cats first meet, it seems they take an insta-matic  picture of the other cats response. If their first meeting includes:  arching, hissing, and spitting, it's not going to be a pretty picture.  They seem to carry this image of the other cat around with it and hold a  grudge, sometimes life long. It's as if each time they come into  contact with the newer cat, they pull out the picture (even if the newer  cat is being nice and calm at the moment) and say 'see, I don't like ya  and I never did!'.

If, however, you let them introduce under  the door first as they sniff each other, you have a far greater chance  of getting them to accept each other. They may hiss and spit at each  other, but since they can't see each other, they don't take this  'grudge' picture. Usually within their 7-day isolation period they will  stop aggressing towards each other under the door, you can let them see  each other, since they have already gotten use to each other's smell. If  either cat starts acting cranky, just shut the door and try again  later. It's that simple.

This technique is especially helpful if  you plan to foster sequential, (different) cats. If each time you bring  a new cat into the household and (in your resident cat's opinion) the  new cats are always spitty, hissy buttheads, your resident cat is going  to resent any visitor and could get stressed out. So we must make sure  your resident cat feels:
They are the king/queen of the universe
This new cat is only a minor inconvenience to their lifestyle
The new cats really aren't thaaattt bad, they just smell a little funny.
If  these introductions go well, resident cats usually adopt a non-chalant  (read: kitty arrogant) approach to these new invaders and simply ignore  the peons. Which is exactly what we want. If they want to make friends  and be buds, that's cool, but most older cats will simply be tastefully  disdainful and ignore the newcomers.  




Feedings  should be twice daily with the food left down for about an hour (ex:  put it down when you first get up, then pick it up before you go to work  and do the same around dinner time). The benefit of twice daily feeding  over free-feed systems (leaving the food down all the time) is that you  absolutely KNOW the cat's appetite every twelve hours. Most cats will  run to the bowl, eager to eat. In this way we can gauge its appetite  very carefully.

If we allow free-feeding, it can takes sometimes  days to figure out if the kitty isn't eating enough. Which, as we  discussed earlier, is important since cats hide their illness very well  and it is extremely important to catch problems as early as they arise.


No,  put the sprinkler away.We're talking about putting water out for the  kitty. This may seem way basic, but the water bowl should be cleaned out  and re-filled with fresh water twice daily.

Some foster cats  may be a tad, shall we shall, eccentric. Some cats will only drink from  glasses (human type glasses and sometimes only if it has ice and dash of  lemon!). Another favorite trick is to only drink from running faucets.  To these individuals, we usually cater. Just be sure everybody has the  fresh water they crave (condiments are optional ), at least twice daily.  


The  litter should be scooped twice daily. This way you can check stool  consistency and be sure the kitty is urinating appropriate amounts. Most  cats will defecate once to twice daily and urinate 2-3 times daily.  Each amount of urine should be about the same size and color. If the  kitty is urinating frequently (either large or small amounts), you may  want to consult your vet.

If the cat ever cries, strains or  spends an inordinate amount of time in the litter box, your vet must be  notified IMMEDIATELY. Especially with male cats. We use high quality  food and urinary tract problems are rare, but can happen so we must be  alert for them.

Anything other than nice normal brown, formed poop and nice yellow urine, should be noted and addressed.


If  the kitty does any of these things, even once, you should be concerned.  It most instances, it will be nothing, but again we always want to be  on the safe side.
Sneezing Coughing Gagging/hairball stuf Wheezing Tires easily Diarrhea Straining to urinate or defecate
Bleeding from any part of the body

Abnormal twitches Loss or decrease of appetite Change in attitude or behavior Lethargic or depressed Breathing heavily
Or any other problem or concern that you have!  

Toys For Your Pet That Are Safe and Fun


 Be  sure not to give your pet toys that can be broken up and potentially  stuck in their throats! Dog toys, like dogs themselves, come in various  shapes and sizes. Cats may also enjoy stuffed and furry toys, but be  sure your pet cannot get at the stuffing inside as it can be a serious  choking hazard. Toy birds and mice have traditionally proven to be very  entertaining for cats. They especially seem to like the ones attached to  string that you can pull and entice your furry feline to chase about!
They  also seem to love simple cardboard boxes, tin-foil balls, and scrunched  up newspaper! A recent favorite of cats and cat owners is the laser  pointer. Cats never seem to tire from chasing that little red dot  around, just be sure not to direct it at their eyes. The  feather-and-pole type of toy is also very popular. Scratching posts are  excellent forms of entertainment for cats, and they provide your cat  something other than your furniture to dig their claws into! Hint: try  sprinkling catnip on the post!!
There is also a series of  catnip-stuffed toys and pillows that your cat will love. There are  literally hundreds of pet toys on the market, just be sure to put safety  first!  



 The practice of giving  cats several different  vaccinations against various diseases all at the same time early in life  and then again every year as "boosters" for the rest of their lives is  coming to a close. This is for two primary reasons: animals can have  adverse reactions to vaccinations that can impair their health for the  rest of their lives; routine "booster" shots are not needed since  earlier vaccinations have given animals sufficient immunity to the  diseases in question.
First, the very young, i.e. before 12 weeks of  age, kittens should not be given vaccinations since this can interfere  with the natural immunity in their systems conferred by the colostrum or  first milk of their mothers. Adult animals in a compromised immune  state, as for example those who are ill, injured, or being given an  anaesthetic and operated on, such as being spayed or castrated, or for  any other surgical procedure, are pregnant or nursing, or are old and  infirm, should not be vaccinated.
The following protocols for  vaccinating cats have been published in the American Holistic Veterinary  Medical Association Journal, Vol. 22, Numbers 2&3 July-December,  2003, p. 47-48:
The Minimum Vaccine Protocol for cats is at 12 weeks  or older to give FCV (calici), FVR (herpes/rhino), FPV (panleukopenia),  and then rabies, but only if required by law. (It is good to give the  rabies vaccination separately, 3-4 weeks later). PureVac, canary pox  vectored rabies vaccine (Merial) is preferred for cats. Vaccinating  against Giardia is not advised since the vaccine can cause granulomas.  FeLV (feline leukemia) vaccine should only be given to at-risk cats at 9  and 12 weeks or 12 and 15 weeks with a booster at a year of age and  none thereafter in order to reduce the chances of injection-site  fibrosarcoma, a cancer that can be fatal. Cats should have serum titer  tests for FPV later in life to determine their immune status. All  vaccinations to be injected under the skin should be placed as far down  the cat's limbs as possible since it is more difficult to treat  fibrosarcomas that develop at other sites such as the neck and back.
The  American Association of Feline Practitioners Feline Vaccination  Advisory Panel offers a different protocol. They do not recommend giving  the Feline corona virus/feline infectious peritonitis vaccination, and  regard three vaccinations--FPV (panleukopenia or parvovirus), and FHV-1  and FCV ( Feline herpes virus 1 and Feline calicivirus) as the core  vaccinations. These should be given at 6, 9, 12 and 16 weeks of age, and  again at one year of age, with boosters every three years. Rabies  vaccination can first be given at 12-16 weeks of age, then again at one  year of age. Non-core vaccinations for those cats at risk from going  outdoors include Feline leukemia and Feline immunodeficiency virus  vaccinations,, and for those going to boarding facilities, Feline  leukemia and Bordatella vaccinations. This Advisory Panel’s  recommendation of early-age, repeated vaccinations is based on the fact  that kittens respond differently when vaccinated because they have  different levels of circulating antibodies from their mothers’ milk that  can interfere with the immune response triggered by vaccination. But I  consider this protocol excessive and the risks, costs, and stress on  kittens unjustified unless they are at risk in poorly managed breeding  facilities and pet stores.

Dr. Michael W. Fox 



 Declawing (Onychectomy) of Cats
Many  veterinarians declaw cats, and many cats suffer as a consequence. The  operation entails more than simply removing the claws, (onychectomy). It  entails removal of the first digit (digitectomy, or de-knuckling).  Declawed cats tend to walk abnormally back on their heels rather than on  their entire pads because of the chronic pain at the end of their  severed fingers and toes. They often develop chronic arthritis and as  the front toe pads shrink, chronic bone infections are common. So many  cats find it painful to use the litter box, develop a conditioned  aversion to using the box, and become un-housebroken. This is why many  declawed cats are put up for adoption or are euthanized. They may also  bite more, and become defensive when handled because their paws are  hurting and infected. The following letter on this topic that I wrote to  my colleagues was published in the Journal of the American Veterinary  Medical Association, Feb. 15, 2006, pages 503-504.
I strongly advise  all prospective cat owners, and those people with cats who are  contemplating having the entire first digit---not simply the  claw---removed surgically from their cats' paws---never to have this  operation performed on their felines.

Michael W. Fox, D.Sc., Ph.D., B.Vet.Med., M.R.C.V.S.